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Chiang Mai isn’t short on Italian restaurants, but representation of the glorious isle of Sicily has, for the most part, been absent from our city’s culinary repertoire. Until now.
From the moment you arrive, it’s clear Mandorla Sicilian Bistrot isn’t trying to blend in. On the corner of Siri Mankalajarn and Nimman soi 7, the sun-drenched yellows and bright Mediterranean blues echo the colours of an Italian summer.
Step inside, and you’re literally handed an ice cold lemon granita and an Aperol spritz – transporting you from the tropical humidity of Thailand to the cooler summer breeze of the “island of three seas”, if you choose to buy in.
And that’s exactly the point. Mandorla isn’t about polished, pan-Italian familiarity. It celebrates Sicily through layers of history, a richly delicious food culture, and unapologetically bold, yet incredibly light flavours. And with a special Easter lunch set menu for this coming April 5-6, there’s no better time to try it for yourselves.
Sunkissed Dining with Sicilian Smile
Start, as you should, with something refreshing. The citrus salad is deceptively simple and comes served as if it was the most tropical ceviche. Built on a mix of oranges, pomelo, grapefruit and lemon, it’s seasoned the Sicilian way – with olive oil, capers, olives and fennel – creating something that’s equal parts sharp, savoury and surprisingly complex.
Once your palate is cleansed with a sour smack of the lips, seafood comes rolling in to bring depth and location to the table. Playing a leading role throughout the menu, ceviches, sauces and the lick of a grill’s flame lean into the coastal DNA. Pairings of hamachi and tuna pop with bright citrus and briney accents, while stuffed baby squid plays into the saltiness of the sea with capers, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies and breadcrumbs, finished with a fresh and uplifting tomato sauce.
Pastas bounce off the teeth, with indulgent crab ravioli – delicate parcels of crab meat and ricotta – and bottarga and scallop linguine that has all the bite (and length) of Medusa’s hair. Conversations are likely to take pause as you tuck in, but that’s only a sign of even more good things to come.
Food is served when ready, allowing you to dance your way through the meal. And although traditionally a refreshing dessert, our hot tip would be to pause in the middle, order a zesty lemon granita and palate-cleanse your way through to the main courses.
If you’re here with a group – or just feeling ambitious – the seafood couscous is a hearty and very sharable option, rooted in Sicily’s Arab-influenced culinary history. Generous on the protein and slow-built by their exceptionally talented chef, the dish is aromatic and a reminder that Italian food isn’t all about pizzas and pastas.
Grilled octopus is another delight to behold – an example of how Mandorla Sicilian Bistrot uplists traditional dishes by opting to grill (rather than boil) the tender mollusc, adding licks of flavour from their charcoal Kamado pit to each and every tentacle.
Sweet Sicilian Service
Drinks play their part here too. Signature Aperol spritzes arrive cold and vibrant, while the granitas, particularly lemon (have you noticed we can’t stop mentioning it?), offers a refreshing spark to any moment – a perfect attack on Chiang Mai’s summer sun.
And then there’s dessert. And honestly, you can’t say you’ve been to Mandorla Sicilian Bistrot without ordering the cannolo. Crisp pastry shells, sweet ricotta filling, a nod to centuries of Sicilian history and, although large in size, best enjoyed in one, maybe two bites. The stuffed brioche and ice cream is, if you have room for such things, recreates a Sicilian beachside classic. Both sweet, heavy and delectable, all in one bite.
But enough about the food, or the drinks. Look up from the multicoloured tables, plates and napkins and the atmosphere helps complete the scene. Of course, the menu is rooted in tradition – pulling from ingredients usually left out on more typical Italian menus – but the setting is anything but Modern, exciting and friendly, it’s one of Chiang Mai’s more approachable spots.
The Details
This April, Easter raises its head once again – a time of year Sicilians traditionally step out of their homes and celebrate over food, drink and merriment. In this spirit, Mandorla Sicilian Bistrot will be opening for lunchtime dining across the Easter weekend (April 5-6), with a dedicated set Easter lunch menu priced at a very digestible 1,250 baht.
On any other day, the restaurant opens at 4pm, imitating the Sicilian way of long-dining over the sunset hours. Start with coffee and cakes, followed by aperitives and drinks by 6pm before tucking into a feast from 7pm onwards.
But however you choose to approach the dining experience, a meal at Mandorla Sicilian Bistrot is just as good for afterwork socials as it is for opulent dinners and easygoing dates. Add in some colour, character and an adventurous hunger, and you’ve just found your next go-to for Italian in Citylife’s favourite neighbourhood.
Mandorla Sicilian Bistrot
48/2 Siri Mangkalajarn Rd, Suthep
Open daily: 4pm – 11pm
Tel. 093 134 6699
