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Mlabri: The Resilient Ones

The land on the road to Ban Boonyuen is scarred. The rolling hillsides previously lush with teak and fruit trees now a barren horizon of dusty, brown mounds and scattered rice cultivations. I tightly hug each turn of the narrow road in anticipation of passing cars, but there aren’t any. The land is a shadow of what it once was, a dense jungle thriving with wildlife and an intricate ecosystem that supported the ways of hunter-gatherers for at least a thousand years. It is obvious, looking at the bare terrain that there’s nothing left to hunt; there’s nothing left to gather.

Roar with the Tigers My first Chiang Mai Football Club Match

No one is breathing. The thousands gathered at the 700th Anniversary Stadium today fall silent as we’re abruptly submerged into one of those magical football moments where time freezes, but a lone ball keeps moving. It glides through the air above the neatly cropped grass of the field when suddenly, shattering the silence and stillness, it collides with the nylon weaves of the goal net and sends the crowd into a fury.

On a Cliff With Josh Morris

Let’s get something straight; Josh Morris is much more than a climber. But for him, climbing is where it all began, the catalyst that would lead to much, much more. When we first meet, I have to force him to don his sunglasses, I just couldn’t recognise him from his pictures online. He laughs, retrieves them from his bag, and the image fits. This is the founder of Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures (CMRCA), an organisation that has transformed Chiang Mai into a climbing destination sought out by adventurers from all over the world.

Far From Safe: Thailand’s Traffic as Fatal as Ever

This April here in Chiang Mai, we welcomed the year 2558 BE with the usual water-soaked Songkran festivities. For most the Thai New Year is a time for celebration, but for an ever increasing number it now marks a period of mourning. Each year hundreds die on the roads during the “seven dangerous days” of Songkran. This year was no different. At least 364 people lost their lives, making Songkran 2015 the most deadly since 2009. These figures come as a blow to the military government, who recently stepped up their efforts to reduce traffic accidents for the UN Decade of Action for Road Safety. Under the UN mandate Thailand must halve its road death rate by the year 2020. Considering the current average stands at 26,000 deaths per year, this is no short order.

Summer Rain Reading

Now that the end of summer is nearing us and the rain clouds are slowly blowing in, its about time we all stock up on a few hearty reads to see us through those wet evenings when leaving the house is off the table. Here are seven of Chiang Mai’s best bookshops, offering romantic fiction to political history and everything else in between.

New to the City

Looking for somewhere new to grab a bite to eat or sit and enjoy a previously unseen angle of your favourite city? Then check out these three new business offering delicious food, exciting new drinks and a new place to see Chiang Mai buzz and thrive.

The Adventures of Tom: June 2015

A chicken’s foot in my soup. A CHICKEN’S FOOT IN MY SOUP! Floating around like a wizened old witch’s claw in amongst the vegetables and lump of congealed blood. I don’t mind the blood, or most of the vegetables, but how can there be any possible benefit, conceivable excuse or imaginable additional taste sensation attached to the culinary abomination that is a severed chicken’s foot? Feet should never be floating in anything, unless they are attached to something that is splashing around in a swimming pool or bobbing about in a Jacuzzi. This is not to in any way deny that Thai food is some of the most delicious on the planet. But, a chicken’s foot…in my soup?

Design Ideas: Suthipa Kiattisarn

The owner of Swoozepop’ Store, Suthipa Kiattisarn, nicknamed Fahsaii, gives us five of her favourite independently designed products you can get right here in Chiang Mai and across Thailand.

Recovering the Lost Vinyl of Thailand

To some the sound track of Thailand is nothing more than a proliferation of earnest but relentless acoustic covers of Wonderwall in coffee shops all over town, but plucked from the dusty corners of libraries, radio station back stock, and forgotten crates in antique shops around the country, record collectors and DJs are rediscovering a funky and freaky era of Thai music that is earning international attention.

Editorial: June 2015

No one likes to be called a hypocrite, let alone admit to being one. And as horrid as it is to admit to, I am one. I wax lyrical on these pages about social responsibility and rules of law…ad nauseam. But I must admit that I’ve not always practiced what I preach.

Trendsetters and Theme Makers

Whacky gambit? Innovative trendsetter? Gimmicky theme? Creative ideas? Brand new styles? Whatever they are, these places are like no other in Chiang Mai, and all deserve your special attention.

Secret Getaways

Whether it’s a mini hotel tucked away in the inner city or a short trip into more natural settings, these three hotels are all found down un-suspecting sois, but are guaranteed to give you a great night’s sleep and delicious breakfasts included.

High Hopes for Chiang Mai’s Art Scene

“In Chiang Mai, things aren’t fixed. Art is fluid here,” said Lyla Phimanrat, founder and curator of Lyla Gallery, Chiang Mai’s newest art space. Lyla debuted her gallery with AN-TI-TLE, a selection from Chiang Mai artist Mit Jai Inn. Lyla guides me through the pieces; vast, paint-splotched canvases on the floor and wall, welded steel tumbleweed like sculptures and metre-high free-standing canvas scrolls.

Thailand’s Biggest Music Export: Nakadia

This month I’m going to look slightly outside the borders of the North and look at one of the biggest success stories to come out of this country. As the electronic scene here grows, so too have local talents that are starting to see recognition on a worldwide scale.

More From Citylife

Scenes from Phayao’s iconic “Wian Tian Klang Kwan” (Candlelit Water Procession), a unique Buddhist tradition believed to be the only one of its kind in the world

Thu 4th Jun

Scenes from Phayao’s iconic “Wian Tian Klang Kwan” (Candlelit Water Procession), a unique Buddhist tradition believed to be the only one of its kind in the world. Held annually on important Buddhist holy days, the ceremony sees devotees boarding boats across Kwan Phayao to perform the sacred candlelit procession around Wat Tilok Aram, a centuries-old temple submerged beneath the lake. The event be … Continued

Ink: Neo Lanna Dance — where the body becomes the brush

Thu 4th Jun

Choreographer Ronnarong Khampha and three musicians bring a new interdisciplinary performance to Chiang Mai this July, reinterpreting traditional Lanna dance through movement, music and visual art. “Ink: Neo Lanna Dance” takes its central concept from a deceptively simple premise — that ink is not merely a mark on a surface but a living movement. Under this idea, the body becomes a brush, leaving … Continued

Rockfall closes lane on Highway 108 in Mae Hong Son

Tue 2nd Jun

Large rocks broke away from a mountainside on Highway 108 this morning, blocking traffic on a stretch of road in Khun Yuam district, Mae Hong Son province. The Department of Highways says continuous rainfall and water erosion caused the collapse at kilometre markers 300+775 to 300+825 on the Nong Haeng–Mae Surin section, in the Ban Mae Surin area. The Khun Yuam Highway Unit deployed staff and heav … Continued

Pu Sae Ya Sae: Chiang Mai’s ancient giant-appeasement, still going strong

Mon 1st Jun

Pu Sae Ya Sae is an annual ceremony held in Mae Hia, just south of the city in the foothills of Doi Suthep-Pui, where a buffalo is sacrificed and eaten — raw — by a local who claims to be possessed by the spirit of a giant. The story behind this unusual tradition is that a long time ago, two giants by the name of Pu Sae and Ya Sae — grandfather Sae and grandmother Sae — roamed these hills and, bei … Continued

Chiang Mai airport customs intercepts cannabis smuggling attempt to Hong Kong

Mon 1st Jun

Chiang Mai airport customs officers, working in collaboration with airport authorities, arrested two Chinese nationals on 31st May as they attempted to smuggle cannabis buds out of the country concealed in snack bags inside their luggage, bound for the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region. The first passenger was found carrying 12 vacuum-sealed packages of cannabis buds hidden among snack items … Continued

Chiang Mai UNESCO bid 80% ready as governor inspects heritage sites ahead of ICOMOS assessment

Mon 1st Jun

Chiang Mai Governor Rattaphon Naradit conducted site visits on 29th May to seven key temples and cultural heritage sites nominated as part of the city’s bid for UNESCO World Heritage status, ahead of an official assessment by experts from the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) scheduled for 3rd–8th August. The sites visited included Wat Umong, Wat Suan Dok, Wat Chiang Man, Wat P … Continued

Mae Ping police launch “Iron Net” crackdown on foreign crime networks

Mon 1st Jun

Mae Ping Police Station has launched a sustained operation targeting foreign nationals in its jurisdiction, focusing on illegal residency and employment, foreign-nominee business fronts, transnational influence networks and individuals suspected of exploiting the area for unlawful gain. Officers from the crime suppression unit have been conducting regular sweeps of gathering points and areas with … Continued

Tens of thousands walk to Doi Suthep for Visakha Bucha

Mon 1st Jun

Tens of thousands of Buddhist faithful and tourists gathered on the evening of 30th May at the Khruba Srivichai Monument for the annual Tiao Khuen Doi tradition, walking in procession up to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep ahead of Visakha Bucha Day. Chiang Mai Governor Rattaphon Naradit presided over the ceremony, bearing royally bestowed bathing water and triple robes donated by His Majesty the King, wh … Continued

Rooftop riders draw criticism during Doi Suthep walking tradition

Mon 1st Jun

Video footage circulating on social media has sparked widespread criticism after some participants in this year’s Tiao Khuen Doi tradition were filmed riding on the roofs of red songthaews on the road up to Doi Suthep — in some cases scrolling on their phones while perched on top of moving vehicles. Tens of thousands of people took part in the annual night walk on 30th May, trekking 14 kilometres … Continued

Central Pattana Demonstrates the Strength of Its Central Pattana Multipurpose Halls Network, Winning 10 Awards at MICE Standards Day 2026 and Advancing Shopping-Mall Halls Nationwide into Global Event Destinations

Mon 1st Jun

Central Pattana Plc., Thailand’s leading sustainable real estate developer under the vision “Imagining Better Futures for All,” continues to strengthen its position as a key driver of Thailand’s MICE industry. The company’s network of Central Pattana Multipurpose Halls across eight shopping centers nationwide has been recognized with 10 prestigious MICE Venue Standard Awards at MICE Standards Day … Continued

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