Editorial: September 2014

Growing up, my name was Pim Shaw _ it’s my English father’s surname. In 1998, when I took over this magazine, I changed it to my mother’s Thai surname, Kemasingki. The only reason I did so was because I knew that I was going to be writing about Thailand and that it would not always be complimentary. I figured, correctly as it turns out, that I could get away with saying a lot more about this count … Continued

No Place to Call Home

One of the most negative aspects to develop out of the newly democratic and open society of Burma is the use of freedom of expression and freedom to gather as a catalyst for ethnic and religious hate mongering. While ethnic tensions between the Buddhists in Rakhine state and their Muslim Rohingyan neighbours have been underlying for generations in both civil society as well as politically, the new … Continued

Born Twice: The Shauna Pugh Story

“When I hit puberty, I became afraid of my own body,” says Shauna Pugh. “I had always identified as female, so I was shocked when my body wasn’t changing like a woman’s.” Now 51 years old and living in Chiang Mai, Shauna co-owns the popular Soho Bar and Guesthouse with her partner, Shattida Jaima, a slim and vivacious 27-year-old Thai woman whose friends call her Rabbit. Shauna is tall and elegant … Continued

Destination: Phnom Penh

Welcome to Phnom Penh, the crazed and colourful capital of a country steeped in brutal history and contemporary political turmoil. Today, it’s something like Bangkok, but a bit (okay, maybe a lot) rougher around the edges: tuk-tuks honking, motorbikes flying, exhaust bellowing, beggars begging, hawkers hawking and the occasional cow ambling along the side of the road. Step into the fray and you’ll … Continued

Monks Behaving Badly

Lately, in news both national and international, there has been an increase in coverage of Thailand’s misbehaving monastic communities. The problem itself, however, is no new phenomenon. Novel, perhaps, but not new.  Wavering figures hold that Thailand is home to between 35,000 and 40,000 temples, with Chiang Mai holding a particular touristic allure precisely because of this: the modern city … Continued

Love or Something Like It

I firmly believe that one of the greatest things travel can do for your romantic life and perspective is that it forces you to see relationships in a new light and challenge your own biases. Progressive though I like to think I am in principle, I know that on some level I still identify strictly with the heterosexual monogamous relationship. That’s not just a product of my Catholic upbringing, but … Continued

What’s Luck Got to Do With It?

I never used to believe in things like chronic bad luck – I didn’t think coincidental intangibles could be chronic. But beliefs can change just as quickly as luck can, and even faster when you (and by you, I mean me) wake up one day realising you’re unluckier than the number thirteen. For me, this realisation occurred not long after I arrived in the good old Land of Smiles. Before that, I’d retain … Continued

Market Obscura: Shopping Off the Beaten Path in Chiang Mai

Ages before the shopping mall boom of today, traditional outdoor markets were a way of life in Chiang Mai. Fortunately, urban development hasn’t yet completely eclipsed the traditional sights and charms of old Lanna. Chiang Mai is renowned for its relaxed atmosphere, enchanting temples and picturesque waterfalls, but it’s the traditional street markets that retain the true flavour and uniqueness o … Continued

Killing in the Name of Buddhism

It was not so long ago that Burmese monks dressed in saffron robes organised brave protests and peaceful processions against the brutal military junta led by General Than Shwe. It was dubbed the Saffron Revolution. In 2007, the monks’ Gandhian non-violent resistance was watched with awe, and commanded the respect of millions around the globe. But these images etched in our collective memory are ha … Continued

City7: Happy Hours

01: 137 Pillars House Hotel This gorgeous hotel in Wat Gate features a 137-pillared old colonial house as its star. Recline in air-conditioned comfort in the sexy lounge, or sit like a teak-wallah on a covered veranda for a buy one get one free series of very “euphoric times” from 4 – 7 p.m. daily for all drinks soft and hard.  2 Soi 1 Na Wat Gate Road www.137pillarshouse.com 02: The Pub One … Continued