It was 2004 and the grand Mandarin Oriental Dhara Dhevi was opening its doors. Four hundred dignitaries, led by Prince Bhisatdej Rajani (who stopped the entire parade to tell yours truly, editor of Citylife, that she was a cry baby when he first met her decades ago), were seated at the grand courtyard in front of the hotel’s majestic reception. The sight of 400 waiters, bringing out 400 dishes