On weekends the road up to Wat Phra That Doi Kham in Mae Hia, Mueang district, fills with people carrying jasmine garlands. They have come from all over the country to ask a favour of Phra Chao Thanchai, the Buddha statue whose name roughly translates as “the instant one,” and a good many have come back to say thank you. Those returning are there to settle up. They made a wish, it came